Escape to the Mountains
Congaree was wonderful; however, after five months of flat, homogeneous land, I yearned for the mountains. The mountains are home. I missed the northern hardwoods, spring ephemerals, and trout streams. Hell, I even missed the rocks and Ericaceous species that I so often complained about. Springtime of the coastal lowland simply isn’t the striking rebirth that we see at more northern latitudes or higher elevations.
April may be considered the “off-season” for visiting our national parks. Only the hardy folks come out to enjoy nature in its rawest form – early spring. Among those ranks, I enjoy the appeal of having the place almost all to myself. What may look like a lifeless, cold, and wet landscape is actually the beginnings of a rebirth. The Great Smoky Mountains was not only going to renew my spirit but would also open my eyes to the great divide in our country.
Ocanaluftee Visitor Center
Although the touristy aspects of the locale are not in my interests, I find that a stop at the visitor center is a great way to set the context of my explorations. Point being is that my desire to visit this national park was originally focused on my lust for nature, at least until I learned of the people who have lived in these mountains. The exhibits tells of the advanced culture of the Cherokee and the self-sufficiency of the early European settlers. The lesson, nonetheless, is the dynamic story of exploitation — the trail of tears, over zealous timber harvest, and acid rain to name a few. It made me think about the past, appreciate what we have today, and wonder about the future. I pondered about the great divide in our country. Learning about the roots of our culture permits me to have a greater understanding of the values that each side holds. Taking it a step further, we should talk to those of the left and right with an open mind so we may understand what is important to each other.
While in the visitor center, I discovered the history of the people who lived within the park boundaries. This morning I reflect on the great divide that is in our country. I recommend to all that they should continue to explore and meet new people and experience new cultures. Doing so, and I have a long way to go, has opened my eyes and made me a more loving and understanding person.
Clingmans Dome
I made it to the top of Clingmans Dome, the third highest mountain in the east at 6,643 feet, and climbed to the top of the tower. Although the low clouds concealed the view, I was impressed by the experience. I felt alive in the elements and I belonged on the top of the mountain. Well, I was ready to leave when the thunder was above and the lightning was crashing!
The rain pounded hard and the wind blew. The dense fog flowed around me. Eight-hundred meters of steep incline got my heart pumping. At the top, a large concrete tower stands. A long ramp circles the tower and permits access. Once there, I enjoyed the view and the elements. Normally people climb up here for a stunning view of the surrounding mountains. The hardy, however, get a primal mix of weather that focuses on the spruce and fir nearby. I’m glad that I came up for them, the true champions of the dome.
Sugarlands Visitor Center
I was smart enough to wear a rain coat but my brilliance, unfortunately, was not enough to keep my pants dry. For the remainder of the day, I was trekking around the park with a soggy bottom. What a rookie mistake! This moot point, however, was not going to reduce the grandness of my adventure.
My travel between Clingmans Dome and the visitor center has yielded some great sights. Of course, the mountains are spectacular. The recent heavy rains have swollen the creeks and rivers making them a delight. There are many water falls to be seen from the main road. I saw my first trillium of the year and marveled over the many other plants in bloom. Also, I’ve never seen so many turkey grazing by the side of the road. The Surgarlands Visitor Center, the park headquarters, has a great natural history museum. I’m glad that I stopped in! Thus far, despite my soggy bottom, I have enjoyed the park. However, I do need to purchase new rain gear!
Cades Cove
I imagined what life was like in Cades Cove. The Cherokee hunted the valley but the land was not settled until the early 1800s by Europeans. Today, we tour the loop to view wildlife and look into the past. I enjoyed hopping out of my car every quarter-mile to experience the history and landscape more personally.
Cades Cove is a wonderful historical area. A drivable loop goes through the area providing easy access to historical structures. I was in awe while discovering the Cable Mill Area. Log houses, a grist mill, black smith shop, barn, smokehouse, and corn crib are some of the preserved buildings. The creek was dammed and a flume installed to run water to the mill. Water still flows through the flume but the wheel at the mill no longer turns.
Back to Asheville, NC
All good things must come to an end and with light fading fast, my day trip to the Great Smoky Mountains was coming to an end. I had the unexpected pleasure of leaving this national park enriched both naturally and culturally. Before heading back to the hotel in Asheville, I stopped at an unconventional Irish pub for a drink and a bite to eat. I was surprised by some live entertainment — music and poetry too!
Blue sky and sunshine greeted me this evening. I’m finally drying out. Now, my adventure in this wonderful park is concluding. Too bad that I don’t have more time to spend here.